Climbing in Tsaranoro, Madagascar
- willrupp
- Dec 9, 2025
- 7 min read
Tsaranoro offers big wall multipitch adventure sport climbing in a spectacular location. The Tsarnoro Massif offers granite peaks up to 1900m in altitude with several distinct walls to climb on. Small rural villages and rice fields dot the landscape of the valley floor and give a very unique climbing experience.
The granite is rough and there are little in the way of cracks – althougth a few wide crack routes do exist. The general style is for crimpy, technical climbs on slabby ground. The majority of the routes have been bolted ground up. The older routes are sparingly bolted, and 10m – 15m between bolts or more when the climbing is easy shouldn’t come as a surprise. The newer routes such as the Arnaud Petits new route (Soava Dia), Vazahamateurs and Blood Moon are more reasonably bolted and should allow you to fall off without injuring yourself. In recent years a number of multipitch routes have been bolted for less advanced climbers and there are now several multipitch routes in the 4c-6a grade. Local climbing guides are easily obtainable if so desired.
The left most section is the cliff of chamleon (so called as it looks like a chameleon is sitting on the top) at 1540m this separate peak offers several climbs. Being only a 20 minute walk from the Tsarasoa camp it gives the shortest approach. The newly bolted Vazamateurs (6c) gives a good introduction to the style with little commitment as it is extremely well bolted. The classic Air Chameleon (6b+) is bolted in an older style, with 10m between bolts when the climbing gets to 6a or easier, however it gives great views of the main Tsarnoro faces. The view from the top of Chameleon is well worth it and the walk down follows the obvious ridge and cairns all the way back to the camp.
To the right of Chameleon are the walls of Vatovarindry and Mitsinjaorivo giving good climbs of about 9 pitches in length with beautiful approaches through the long grass. The climb Dancing with the World offers varied climbing, from bolted chimmneys, slabs, traverses and overhangs.
After this comes the major walls of Tsarnoro, the first being Tsarnoro Atsimo. This contains Adam Ondras route Mora Mora (8c) along with Soava Dia (7c+). Soava Dia was bolted in 2018 by Arnaud Petit and a young french team. It offers great face and arete climbing with perfect rock and shiny new bolts. Normally done over two days the advantage of the route is that it offers a perfect bivi spot after the 9th pitch in the dip between Tsaranoro Atsimo and Tsarnoro Be. So no portaledge is needed which is a great advantage. Also on this face is Robbie Philips and teams route Blood Moon, which has been sportingly bolted and it yet to see a repeat.
Next comes the biggest wall of Tsarnoro Be. The routes on this wall are up to 800m in length so should be tackled over multiple days, apart from the most competent of teams. The new route Cuento de Habas (7b+/7c) contains 250 bolts and offers a better and newer alternitive to the classic Gondwalaland (7c) – as this route is showing its age and is not recommended by the local climber in its current state. Apparently only having one bolt on a 50m 7a pitch with unreliable bolts and anchors due to rusting bolts. The route Vazimba (7a) looks like an obvious challenge on this wall, following the huge obvious crack on the main face but would need a number of large cams to make it safe.
To the right is Tsarnoro Kely, this contains the must do classic Out of Africa, a 580m 7a. This should be very doable in a day and the two crux 7a routes can be easily aided through. It does contain a very run out 6c pitch, however over all this route is very considerately bolted. A very early start is recommend and lots of water, as you will be in the sun till around midday. If walking in in the dark it is recommend to already know the path you should take as it is very easy to get lost.
The walk ins for the Tsaranoro walls all take around 1 hour 20 minutes. However it is very easy to get lost in the long grass and small diverting paths. The descent from the routes adds further complications and taking a headtorch is always advised. Abseiling off the route can be done, however you do risk getting your rope stuck on the flaky granite. Walking and abseiling off the backside of the peak is a better option. From Tsarnoro Atsimo it is necesarry to abseil to the right of the peak and then ascend a fxed rope to Tsarnoro Be.
From Tsarnoro Be you must then abseil down to Tsarnoro kely, from Tsarnoro kely a further abseil is needed to find the path (marked by cairns) back to the camp. This descent is hard to find and make sure you gather the information on how to get down before you start a route.
The next face is the obvious face of Karambony, a challenge for BASE jumpers and climbers alike. The contains several hard routes including Tough Enough (8c). Next to Karambony is Lemur Wall. The Lemur wall gives brilliant climbing on solid dark granite, the classic Pectorine (6b+) is well worth the visit.
There is also the 2200m peak of Mount Dondy which offers longer routes, with a walk in to match.
New routing is still very possible on all the walls, in our stay several new routes were put up by Swiss and French teams. The potential seems endless, and for a long stay bolting a new route would be a brilliant idea. There is unlimited bouldering to be done, and near to the camp are some great problems. Bouldering pads can be easily borrowed from the camp.
Fallay – the madagascan mountain guide bouldering.
Althought most of the area has been deforested there is an effort to replant the tress in the area. You will see several species of wild life including lemurs, chameleons, lots of lizards and snakes (there are no poisonous snakes in Madagascar).
When to go?
Giles Gautier, who runs the Tsarasoa camp, recommended the colder months of June, July and August if you want to climb hard. However we visited in September to early October and the temperature was very manageable and there is very little/ no rain in September.
How to get there?
Note – £1 is 4500 Ariary
You will have to fly to the capital of Antananarivo and reutrn flights cost £500 to £1000 from London. From the capital you have several options to get to Tsarnoro. The easist and most expensive option is to get a private minivan directly from the airport, this can be arranged through the Tsarasoa camp and cost €300 one way for the bus, this takes around 20 hours.
For people on a budget or who want to experience the country it is possible to get to the camp by local transport. A taxi can take you from the airport to the taxi brouse station in Antananarivo (40000 Ar) – make sure you get the station for Fianarantsoa (Fiana). From here get a taxi brouse to Fiana (26000 Ar) 10 hours. It is necesarry to stop in Fiana for the night, the hotel next to the bus station is acceptable and costs 30000 Ar. From Fiana get a taxi brouse to Antanambao (7000Ar) and from here, either wait for a car to take you or call the camp and arrange to get picked up to be taken the down the short dirt track to the camp. Overall this costs around £20 and is by far the cheapest way.
When travelling on taxi brouse always go to the office to book a ticket as prices will be on the wall, touts outside these offices will try and overcharge you. You can take as much luggage as you like as this will be strapped to the roof. It is also possible to book a “vip” taxi brouse through Cotisse transport (google this) this gives you added comfort and the knowledge you won’t have to share a seat, however you will need to pay for luggage over 20kg using this.
Where to stay?
There is only really one place to stay for climbers, this is Giles Gautiers camp called Tsarasoa (https://www.tsarasoa.com/en/). Tsarasoa is a real climbers hub and offers Topos, good food (25000 Ar 3 course dinner), small huts, camping (20000 Ar a place) and a brilliant bar. Giles Gautier has lived in the valley for 30 years and is a wealth of knowledge. He used to own Camp Catta, however he then opened Tsarasoa. Camp Catta is still open however is is far more touristy and less accomodating to climbers.
Food
There is food avaliable at the camp and lunch can be prepared. However if you want your own fod, this will have to be bought in a town before coming – Fiana is a good option. In the valley there are several small local shops that offer basic supplies such as rice, biscuits, tinned fish e.t.c. Water is all filtered spring water and all the taps in the camp are drinkable. Pierce gas is avaliable on request but not screw on.
Guide
The topos can easily be obtained from the bar at Tsarasoa but I found that the book – Rock Around the World (http://thierrysouchard.com/en/rock-around-the-world-2/) contained a great selection of the climbs with helpful images and maps and is well worth buying. A full guide to the area is apparently in the pipeline. An online PDF also exist with a comilation of the majority of routes: https://www.steinfibel.de/madagascar/Tsaranoro_Valley_Collected_Tops_08_2016.pdf
Gear
It is necessary to bring your own gear although lots of gear can be rented from the camp. Bouldering pads, portaledges and other items are avaliable. If you
want a guide to take you up a route they can provide all the equipment for you. Double ropes or a single rope and tagline are required for the abseils. 20 quickdraws should suffice. Trad gear is not really needed at all unless you have a specific route that requires it, for these routes it seems very big cams would be most useful.
What else is there to do?
The is a number of hiking trails around the area as well as paraglinding and base jumping if you are so inclined. It is possible to pay to go for a swim in the camp catta swimming pool which is a great rest day. Breaking up the trip on the way there or back is a good option and Ansirabe is a great city to stop in.
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